Lowering the White Flag: The DVF Reissued 50th Anniversary Wrap Dress / Vogue 2000

 

I have to admit, I do like this DVF wrap dress that Vogue patterns re-issued earlier this year.  I'm just sad that this one doesn't fit me very well.  I made a size 14 and the bust dart sits too high and there is not enough coverage in the front to feel comfortable to wear it out into the public sphere.  I finished it because I found someone who likes it and it will soon be gifted to them.  I'm glad it's going to a good home.  

I did pick up another copy of the pattern, this time in the larger size range.  And I do intend to make another version that I hope I can fix the fitting issues I had with this one.  Last month when I posted about my wrap dress woes, Victoria commented with a link to an article on raising the neckline on a wrap dress.  Thank you!  I'm going to keep these tips in mind for the next one.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Pullover Skirt / OOP Butterick 5790

Do I need another pull-on maxi skirt?  Not really, this project is all about stash busting this small piece of cotton knit fabric with a tried and true pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  I know that I will get lots of wear from this skirt over the summer, it's comfortable and it will go with tops already in rotation.  It's a win.   

This medium weight cotton knit fabric has been in the stash for decades.  It was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hem finish:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clipper, Janome cover stitch machine, iron, ironing board, safety pins and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Wool Winter Coat: OOP Vogue 8934

I know it's officially spring and we didn't even feel like we experienced a winter here this year.  And yet I've been busy sewing a winter coat.  This has actually been months in the making.  This wool coat is made with a favourite Marcy Tilton design, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8934.  

 

I may have mentioned in past versions that this coat is a labour of love as there is a lot of basting and hand-stitching involved in the making of this coat.  There are a total of twenty-four hemline darts, a set of eight on the fashion, lining and underlining fabrics.  It's one of my favourite features that gives this coat it lantern effect.  It has hidden buttons and buttonholes and side pockets.   

Fabrics

The fashion fabric for this coat is a previously owned 100% wool coating from Winnipeg Sews.  It's a gorgeous, thick and warm, wine coloured wool.  And it was a fraction of the cost of the wool blend options found new at the local fabric store.  There is no comparison of this fabric to the coating options found in the fabric stores this past winter.  This fabric is of superior quality and is a gem.  It was a pleasure to sew.  

Care was taken with the placement of the pattern pieces as this wool fabric has a nap.  The other kind of nap may or may not have contributed to the lengthy time it took to complete this sewing project.  But I digress.  

The nap, found in the wool coating fabric, is the texture of a fabric with raised fibers going in one particular direction.  The nap can be easily felt by running your hand over the fabric.  If your hand is running downwards "with the nap" it will feel smooth.  Whereas if you run your hand upwards "against the nap" it will feel rough.  The pattern pieces had to be pinned and cut in the same direction downwards "with the nap."  

The coat is lined with a black cotton back satin and underlined with a wind breaking fleece.  Both of these fabrics were in the stash for many moons. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged lining pieces.  Wool did not require serging.  

Fabrics:  6.7 metres

Buttons:  5--1 inch buttons

Sewing Label:  2--1 "Vogue Patterns Designer Original" and 1 KATM "Bespoke" sewing labels.  

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8934

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric shears, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, hand sewing needle, threads (coat thread for hand stitching facings and buttons, polyester threads for the serger and cotton thread for the sewing machine), Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, buttonhole foot, cutting board, buttonhole cutter, small hammer, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, clapper, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, procrastination and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

March in Review

Happy Easter!

Photo from the 2024 Easter Parade in NYC {Photo Credit:  Joanna Moriello, New York Daily News}

This is a scene outside St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City.  No such festive sights in this part of my world but I do appreciate looking up photos from this annual event.  I hope you are all enjoying a blessed Easter season no matter where you are or how you're celebrating, Happy Easter.  

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Top L to R clockwise:  Feather print cotton knit pajama top (Closet Core / Ebony), feather print cotton knit pajama bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), pink and gray cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), polka dot cotton foam block cover (no pattern used), gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core / Ebony), rusty brown merino wool cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192).

Sewing t-shirts on a cover stitch machine was a game changer this month at the sewing table.  How did I ever sew without one?  Sewing knits started off as a challenge in the beginning.  Over the years,  Knit 'N Stable tape had been used for sewing hems on knit fabrics.  No need for using that technique anymore.  Oh, the time that I will save!  

Mending and alterations kept me busy again this month.  There was replacing a broken button and repairing a hole on this dress and re-attaching pant hooks on these.  And going through the wardrobe to see what can be edited or transformed into something else.  I tried to make Vogue 2000 in my typical size but it didn't work out for me.  I need to go up a size.  I'm happy to have the first attempt back on the sewing table to finish.  It will be gifted to someone who fits into it.  I just hope they don't mind that I still plan to make my own chambray version down the road.  But first, there's alterations to do to the pattern pieces and a toile to sew before I cut into anymore chambray fabric.  

Stash busted and Stash Additions

Stash busted this month:  

• 13.5 metres fabric (includes the fabric used for the yet-to-be finished Vogue 2000)
• 1.5 metres interfacing
• 1 -- 55 cm invisible zipper
• 1 package of seam binding
• 1 sewing label
• 1 metre elastic
• 1 metre basting tape

Additions to the stash:

• 5 spools of thread
• one second-hand cover stitch 
• 15 metres fabric
• another copy of the re-issued DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 2000

Stash busted this year:  

• 35.3 metres fabric
• 4.3 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit-N-Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 4 sewing labels
• 4 buttons
• 3 metres elastic
• 11 spools of thread
• 4.3 metres of basting tape

This year's additions:

• 14 spools of thread
• 7 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

 

Stash busting: Pajama Bottoms / McCall's P349

These are the pajama bottoms I made to go with this t-shirt.  

These pajama bottoms are made with out-of-print (OOP) McCall's P349.  The only change was to shorten the length.  There is an optional decorative tie for the center front waistband.  It is an easy and quick project.  The fabric was pretreated before cutting.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged and coversitched

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Pattern:  OOP McCall's P349

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring table, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome cover stitch machine, Janome serger, measuring gauge, tailor's ham, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!  

Stash busting: Cotton Knit Tee / Closet Core Ebony

 

This is the third version of Closet Core's Ebony t-shirt pattern and it's my favourite one.  There were small subtle changes to the hemline that made it so.  I trimmed a small piece from the back after laying the pre-hemmed top on the table and using the front centre length as a guide.  As I tried to press the hem up I noticed that the side seam at the hemline could use a bit of trimming as well.  That eliminated the hi-low hem that I was trying to avoid.  Hi-low hems seem to work on a taller frame than mine.  This version, I did not cut two inches shorter as I did on the second version.  

The sleeves were kept the same length as the first and second versions, lengthened nine inches.  The hems have a one inch allowance and have been finished with a coverstitch machine. 

Ebony is a keeper, right after I transfer the hemline changes to the pattern pieces.  It's well drafted and a wonderful pattern for beginners, highly recommended.  

The fabric is a cotton knit from Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It is the same print and fabric used for this dress, just a different colour.  It was pre-treated with a toss in the wash and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Cover Pro, screwdriver, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: New Pajama Top / Closet Core Ebony

 

I'm in the process of sewing a new pajama set.  The Ebony t-shirt pattern is that comfortable, perfect for sleepwear and has enough ease to wear over a brace.  The only change since the last version is that I shortened the hem two inches.  

There is enough of this medium weight cotton knit fabric to sew a pair of matching pajama bottoms.  It's next up in the sewing queue.  The fabric has been in the stash for the past two years picked up with thoughts of sewing another wrap dress.  And then plans changed.  The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer, followed by a quick steam press before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Hems:  Cover stitched

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core Ebony

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, ruler, Janome sewing machine, threads, Jamone coverstitch machine, seam ripper, Jamone serger, screwdriver, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham and tea.  

Happy Sewing!