Wednesday, 22 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

It has now been three weeks since I stopped wearing man-made fabrics. My wardrobe has been cleared out and what remains are items made with cotton, cashmere, linen, or silk. And so far, there has been an noticeable difference in my sinus issues. It will be interesting to see if this continues for another two and a half months. In the meantime, I'm working on a new winter coat made out of all natural fibres since my winter coat has a Kasha lining and is underlined with micro-fleece.  

Even though it is cold enough to wear a winter coat, I'm distracted with another potential project. There is a new pattern in the collection, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 6437 in the sizes that I need. Now I just need to decide on fabric. There is a beautiful grey coloured British wool that I'm tempted to use but I think I might make it in a blue cotton to test out the pattern.  

I'll have to put OOP McCall's 6437 in the smaller sizes up for sale in the Etsy shop since I won't need to grade the pattern. Oh and the Etsy shop has a sale going on for the next two weeks. All patterns, scarfs, stockings, and vintage items have been reduced by 20% and microwave cozies by 10% off. The sale ends December 6, 2017.  

It's hard to believe that Christmas is soon approaching. I'll need to get busy with gift giving sewing projects soon.  

Well, that is all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  

Tuesday, 21 November 2017

The Perfect Merger: Vogue 9268 & 9057

I first made Kathryn Brenne's dress, Vogue 9268, a few months ago and it has been on my wish list to make another. I love how comfortable this dress is to wear but even though I like the drape of the ITY knit, I really wanted one in a cotton jersey. The ITY knit was my toile before I cut into this fabric. Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9057 came into play when I was thinking about what I wanted to change. On Vogue 9268 the armhole sits a little low, almost a dropped armhole. It wasn't a big deal but while ironing my tee-shirt (yeah, I do that) it hit me that I like how the armhole and even the modified neckline fits. I wondered if these two pattern could work together.  

It turned out to be the perfect merger.  

I started out with matching the point where the underarm and side seam meet and then folded under and out of the way the bodice from the dress. From there I was able to cut the armhole, shoulder and modified neckline from Vogue 9057 and kept the shape of the side and skirt seams. This way I was able to achieve the rounded neckline that I preferred. The sleeve pattern that I used came from Vogue 9057 and there wasn't much difference besides the armhole shape. I also, as on the toile, eliminated the centre seams opting for the dress to be cut on the fold. The sleeve length was extended 1 1/2" and the skirt was shortened an inch.  

Instead of cutting the interfacing pattern pieces from Vogue 9268, I chose Knit-N-Stable tape to stabilize the hems and neckline edges.  

I can't be more thrilled with how it turned out. The fabric is a batik cotton jersey that I found at Northwest / Marshall fabrics and much to my surprise it is wider than 150 cm. It is the perfect width (170 cm) for the larger sizes as it can easily accommodate the full drape of the skirt. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer prior to cutting it out. It will be washed in cold water and after this I will just hang it to dry as I don't want to risk it shrinking any more.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  3.8 metres

Fusible tape:  3 metres

Sewing machine needle:  1 Ball point needle

Patterns:  Vogue 9268 and Vogue 9057

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, lint brush, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 20 November 2017

Panties: Simplicity 8229

Today, I spend some time making a couple more pairs of panties.  

Easy peasy sewing project. The fabric is a 95% cotton / 5% spandex knit. I have to say this is my go-to pattern for panties. Even though Simplicity 8228, another Madalynne design, is quite nice with the lace insets, there is something about this one that I prefer. The lace is cute but it's not really my thing. I like the simple and comfortable look when it comes to undergarments.  

The Stats:

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  4.8 metres picot elastic

Thread:  1 spool finished off

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, ballpoint needle, threads, serger, tweezers, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday, 18 November 2017

Pyjama Top: Butterick 6296

I chose this Lisette pattern, Butterick 6296, as the top half of my pyjama set and mixed up details between view A and B.

I wanted some piping and long sleeves and went from there.  I omitted the piping from the collar and front edge shown on view B, going for the clean finish illustrated in view A.  I kept the long sleeves, and at the last minute I changed my mind about the piping on the sleeve band. The only place I used piping was on the pocket facing. I cut the length shown in view A and went with the chest pocket instead of the patched hem pockets. And this is another reason why I like sewing, I'm in charge of the details that I find appealing and want.

The little chest pocket is more decorative than functional and I'm okay with that since the pockets on the matching pyjama pants are quite generous. The challenge of sewing the pocket on was eliminated with the aid of the jean-a-ma-jig®.

Back view.

The December 2017 / January 2018 issue of Vogue Patterns has an article titled, "Luxe Pajamas to Give or Keep" by Kathryn Brenne. It is a wonderfully detailed article on making a beautiful 100% silk crepe back satin pyjama set. My humble cotton jammies are not as fancy but I did take note of something that made my pyjamas special, a back neck facing.

A lot of vintage patterns from a certain age used to include back facings but you don't see them anymore. Kathryn Brenne is right with drafting this piece. I think it looks and feels great. I used the back pattern piece as a guide for the shoulder and neckline and then free hand drew the rest. I interfaced this piece, stitched it to the front facing, serged it and then stitched it in place after the facings and collar were sewn.

Grading the seam allowances.  
The fabric is a 100% cotton and was pre-treated as outlined in this post. The buttons may now be considered vintage. I picked up a box when Eaton's was closing down many moons ago. Even though they are suit buttons, they have become my go-to pyjama buttons over the years. The colour worked out perfect for this fabric.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  1.2 metres fusible interfacing

Buttons:   5 - 19 mm 

Piping:   0.1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6296

Additional Tools & Supplies: Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measure gauge, sewing machine, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, serger, thread, thread clippers, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, hand needle, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!    

Friday, 17 November 2017

Pyjama Bottoms: Vogue 9217

A designer Vogue pattern for pull-on pants with a shaped hem made the perfect pair of pyjama bottoms. 

The pattern is Kathryn Brenne's Vogue 9217 and I'm quite happy with how these turned out. They have generous pockets, an elasticized waist, and the cutest seam binded hem. There will defiantly be another pair or two in my sewing future. I'm thinking the reversible top that is part of this pattern along with another pair of pants would make a cute summertime outfit. But I digress...   

The fabric is a 100% cotton. It was pretreated with a cycle through the washing machine and tumble in the dryer followed by a pressing on the steam setting. The pattern was shortened by an inch and I had to grade the pattern up to a large to provide the amount of ease I want for pyjama bottoms. The pattern is a multi-sized pattern but I purchased the smaller size thinking that the loose-fitting description would be enough. Perhaps loose-fitting referred to the other garments in the pattern? Or maybe I need to do some more squats? Anyway, it all worked out perfectly.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres

Elastic:  1.2 metres of 25 mm wide elastic

Seam binding:  1.65 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, thread, seam ripper, iron, ironing board, and tea. 

Happy Sewing!   

Thursday, 16 November 2017

National Button Day!

Today is National Button Day.

Clockwise top L to R:  recycled large black rose coat button, green and blue vintage buttons circa 1960s, vintage black and silver buttons, new burgundy shirt buttons, recycled large red decorative buttons, polka dot buttons, large rooster decorative button, red shirt buttons, and black and silver coat buttons.  
A day to celebrate buttons! When it comes to sewing clothes, I prefer using buttons to sewing a zipper. It's just easier to get in and out of a garment with buttons never mind replacement. I would much rather replace a button than replace a zipper! And buttons can be decorative besides functional. Sure, there are decorative zippers out on the market but do they really compare to these gorgeous buttons?  
There are so many buttons out there that are tiny pieces of art. Of course there would be a National Button day! If you're interested in reading a fascinating piece on the history of buttons and some beautiful visuals, I recommend this read.

Happy Sewing!  (with buttons!) 

Tuesday, 14 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Today started off with the heartbreaking news that Nancy Zieman passed away early this morning.

Back in September, not long ago, she wrote a message to her viewers that she would be retiring from her program and that the next fifteen new episodes would be her last. It was a terribly sad good-bye as she hinted that the end was near. I don't have a lot of words other than the sadness felt at this news.  Rest in peace gentle soul.  


In Sewing News Today...

It has now been three weeks since I stopped wearing man-made fabrics. My wardrobe has been cleared out and what remains are items made with...