Wednesday, 22 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

It has now been three weeks since I stopped wearing man-made fabrics. My wardrobe has been cleared out and what remains are items made with cotton, cashmere, linen, or silk. And so far, there has been an noticeable difference in my sinus issues. It will be interesting to see if this continues for another two and a half months. In the meantime, I'm working on a new winter coat made out of all natural fibres since my winter coat has a Kasha lining and is underlined with micro-fleece.  

Even though it is cold enough to wear a winter coat, I'm distracted with another potential project. There is a new pattern in the collection, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 6437 in the sizes that I need. Now I just need to decide on fabric. There is a beautiful grey coloured British wool that I'm tempted to use but I think I might make it in a blue cotton to test out the pattern.  


I'll have to put OOP McCall's 6437 in the smaller sizes up for sale in the Etsy shop since I won't need to grade the pattern. Oh and the Etsy shop has a sale going on for the next two weeks. All patterns, scarfs, stockings, and vintage items have been reduced by 20% and microwave cozies by 10% off. The sale ends December 6, 2017.  


It's hard to believe that Christmas is soon approaching. I'll need to get busy with gift giving sewing projects soon.  


Well, that is all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  



Tuesday, 21 November 2017

The Perfect Merger: Vogue 9268 & 9057

I first made Kathryn Brenne's dress, Vogue 9268, a few months ago and it has been on my wish list to make another. I love how comfortable this dress is to wear but even though I like the drape of the ITY knit, I really wanted one in a cotton jersey. The ITY knit was my toile before I cut into this fabric. Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9057 came into play when I was thinking about what I wanted to change. On Vogue 9268 the armhole sits a little low, almost a dropped armhole. It wasn't a big deal but while ironing my tee-shirt (yeah, I do that) it hit me that I like how the armhole and even the modified neckline fits. I wondered if these two pattern could work together.  


It turned out to be the perfect merger.  


I started out with matching the point where the underarm and side seam meet and then folded under and out of the way the bodice from the dress. From there I was able to cut the armhole, shoulder and modified neckline from Vogue 9057 and kept the shape of the side and skirt seams. This way I was able to achieve the rounded neckline that I preferred. The sleeve pattern that I used came from Vogue 9057 and there wasn't much difference besides the armhole shape. I also, as on the toile, eliminated the centre seams opting for the dress to be cut on the fold. The sleeve length was extended 1 1/2" and the skirt was shortened an inch.  


Instead of cutting the interfacing pattern pieces from Vogue 9268, I chose Knit-N-Stable tape to stabilize the hems and neckline edges.  


I can't be more thrilled with how it turned out. The fabric is a batik cotton jersey that I found at Northwest / Marshall fabrics and much to my surprise it is wider than 150 cm. It is the perfect width (170 cm) for the larger sizes as it can easily accommodate the full drape of the skirt. The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer prior to cutting it out. It will be washed in cold water and after this I will just hang it to dry as I don't want to risk it shrinking any more.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  3.8 metres

Fusible tape:  3 metres

Sewing machine needle:  1 Ball point needle

Patterns:  Vogue 9268 and Vogue 9057

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, walking foot, tweezers, lint brush, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 20 November 2017

Panties: Simplicity 8229

Today, I spend some time making a couple more pairs of panties.  


Easy peasy sewing project. The fabric is a 95% cotton / 5% spandex knit. I have to say this is my go-to pattern for panties. Even though Simplicity 8228, another Madalynne design, is quite nice with the lace insets, there is something about this one that I prefer. The lace is cute but it's not really my thing. I like the simple and comfortable look when it comes to undergarments.  


The Stats:

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  4.8 metres picot elastic

Thread:  1 spool finished off

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, scissors, pins, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, ballpoint needle, threads, serger, tweezers, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday, 18 November 2017

Pyjama Top: Butterick 6296

I chose this Lisette pattern, Butterick 6296, as the top half of my pyjama set and mixed up details between view A and B.


I wanted some piping and long sleeves and went from there.  I omitted the piping from the collar and front edge shown on view B, going for the clean finish illustrated in view A.  I kept the long sleeves, and at the last minute I changed my mind about the piping on the sleeve band. The only place I used piping was on the pocket facing. I cut the length shown in view A and went with the chest pocket instead of the patched hem pockets. And this is another reason why I like sewing, I'm in charge of the details that I find appealing and want.


The little chest pocket is more decorative than functional and I'm okay with that since the pockets on the matching pyjama pants are quite generous. The challenge of sewing the pocket on was eliminated with the aid of the jean-a-ma-jig®.

Back view.

The December 2017 / January 2018 issue of Vogue Patterns has an article titled, "Luxe Pajamas to Give or Keep" by Kathryn Brenne. It is a wonderfully detailed article on making a beautiful 100% silk crepe back satin pyjama set. My humble cotton jammies are not as fancy but I did take note of something that made my pyjamas special, a back neck facing.


A lot of vintage patterns from a certain age used to include back facings but you don't see them anymore. Kathryn Brenne is right with drafting this piece. I think it looks and feels great. I used the back pattern piece as a guide for the shoulder and neckline and then free hand drew the rest. I interfaced this piece, stitched it to the front facing, serged it and then stitched it in place after the facings and collar were sewn.

Grading the seam allowances.  
The fabric is a 100% cotton and was pre-treated as outlined in this post. The buttons may now be considered vintage. I picked up a box when Eaton's was closing down many moons ago. Even though they are suit buttons, they have become my go-to pyjama buttons over the years. The colour worked out perfect for this fabric.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  1.2 metres fusible interfacing

Buttons:   5 - 19 mm 

Piping:   0.1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 6296

Additional Tools & Supplies: Cutting table, pins, scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measure gauge, sewing machine, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, serger, thread, thread clippers, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, hand needle, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!    

Friday, 17 November 2017

Pyjama Bottoms: Vogue 9217

A designer Vogue pattern for pull-on pants with a shaped hem made the perfect pair of pyjama bottoms. 


The pattern is Kathryn Brenne's Vogue 9217 and I'm quite happy with how these turned out. They have generous pockets, an elasticized waist, and the cutest seam binded hem. There will defiantly be another pair or two in my sewing future. I'm thinking the reversible top that is part of this pattern along with another pair of pants would make a cute summertime outfit. But I digress...   


The fabric is a 100% cotton. It was pretreated with a cycle through the washing machine and tumble in the dryer followed by a pressing on the steam setting. The pattern was shortened by an inch and I had to grade the pattern up to a large to provide the amount of ease I want for pyjama bottoms. The pattern is a multi-sized pattern but I purchased the smaller size thinking that the loose-fitting description would be enough. Perhaps loose-fitting referred to the other garments in the pattern? Or maybe I need to do some more squats? Anyway, it all worked out perfectly.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres

Elastic:  1.2 metres of 25 mm wide elastic

Seam binding:  1.65 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, serger, thread, seam ripper, iron, ironing board, and tea. 

Happy Sewing!   


Thursday, 16 November 2017

National Button Day!

Today is National Button Day.

Clockwise top L to R:  recycled large black rose coat button, green and blue vintage buttons circa 1960s, vintage black and silver buttons, new burgundy shirt buttons, recycled large red decorative buttons, polka dot buttons, large rooster decorative button, red shirt buttons, and black and silver coat buttons.  
A day to celebrate buttons! When it comes to sewing clothes, I prefer using buttons to sewing a zipper. It's just easier to get in and out of a garment with buttons never mind replacement. I would much rather replace a button than replace a zipper! And buttons can be decorative besides functional. Sure, there are decorative zippers out on the market but do they really compare to these gorgeous buttons?  
There are so many buttons out there that are tiny pieces of art. Of course there would be a National Button day! If you're interested in reading a fascinating piece on the history of buttons and some beautiful visuals, I recommend this read.

Happy Sewing!  (with buttons!) 


Tuesday, 14 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

Today started off with the heartbreaking news that Nancy Zieman passed away early this morning.


Back in September, not long ago, she wrote a message to her viewers that she would be retiring from her program and that the next fifteen new episodes would be her last. It was a terribly sad good-bye as she hinted that the end was near. I don't have a lot of words other than the sadness felt at this news.  Rest in peace gentle soul.  



  

Friday, 10 November 2017

Pleated Skirt: OOP Vogue 9951

Sometimes you just feel like breaking the rules.  


I made this skirt with out-of-print Vogue 9951, circa 1996, in a canvas, almost denim, weight fabric. But that is not where I broke the rules. This Vogue pattern lists view A and B pleated skirts as "unsuitable for obvious diagonals, plaids or stripes." 


It's the first time trying out this pattern and the fabric was a bargain find at Ikea. So I thought what the heck and gave it a try. I won't say that I dislike it, but I'm not loving it either. It will be a good item to kick around the house in. It would probably look better in a different fabric. The pattern suggestions are for a light-weight gabardine, wool crepe and light weight woollens. It would look nice in those fabrics.  

This was all about trying the pattern. I had to make some adjustment to the size, and to be honest, I can still do some tweaking there.  I omitted the waistband only because it would have sat too high.  Instead I finished off the waistline with left over seam binding. I did the same for the hem. I wish this skirt had pockets. Pockets would have been great.  

All and all, it's a pattern worth revisiting at a later date. In the meantime, I think I can get some use out of this skirt.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  1.6 metres 

Zipper:  1 - 7" invisible zipper

Basting Tape:  0.36 metres

Seam binding:  2.5 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 9951

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, serger, iron, and ironing board.

Happy Sewing!  

Thursday, 9 November 2017

Panties: Simplicity 8229

I'm revisiting Simplicity 8229 this evening. 


I made a few for Mama R a few months ago but she asked if I can sew a few with the elastic on the outside. She doesn't find how the elastic is inserted comfortable to wear. This insight has me confused because I haven't found any issue with how the elastic is sewn. But who am I to argue with how someone feels in their clothes. Comfort is everything. Before I go into production mode with these I thought I would try out a sample to see if this will work. Fingers are crossed.  

The fabric is a recent purchase. Mama R complained that the other pairs don't stay up well. And I'm certain is has to do with the fabric she chose. This cotton knit is the one that I use for my own panties so I went to pick up some more hoping that it has the amount of stretch that she finds comfortable. I found it in the discount section at Fabricland and it's currently marked down to 70% off. The picot elastic used at the leg openings came from Northwest Fabrics and boy did their stock of picot elastics sell quickly. Hopefully they'll get more in soon in a colour that better matches my fabric since I picked up enough fabric to make several pairs of panties. Since Mama R complained about how the elastic was sewn on I decided to try a lightweight lace elastic sewn on the outside of the waistline. I'm not sure if she'll like it or not but my hope is that this will be more comfortable.  


The Stats:  

Fabric:  0.5 metres of cotton knit  

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Thread:  1 spool was finished off during this project

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, pin cushion, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, iron, ironing board, good tunes and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Monday, 6 November 2017

Time Will Tell

Word out on the internet is
NEWS FROM OUR PARENT COMPANY: We are excited to announce that CSS Industries, Inc. has just purchased Simplicity Creative Group. The Simplicity family of brands includes wonderful sewing patterns, of course, but also Wrights® trims and sewing notions, as well as terrific crafts brands including Boye®, Perler®, Dimensions® and American Girl Crafts®. These brands—combined with our existing CSS brands, including Offray®, Lion Ribbon™, C.R. Gibson®, La Mode® buttons, McCall’s®, Butterick® and Vogue Patterns®, and our creative and dedicated employees—will continue to bring our consumers an ever increasing variety of products and innovation all within the CSS portfolio of brands.
I'm not sure what this is going to mean for consumers, only time will tell. I'm sitting on the fence right now. Maybe I'm surprised. But there are a lot of speculation and strong opinions as to what this will mean. 

There is hope that it will mean Canadian consumers will have access to Simplicity patterns without having to fork over a small fortune in shipping and exchange rates. Or travelling across the border for a pattern run.  Fabricland stopped carrying Simplicity and New Look patterns years ago. I'm not so sure if they will reappear since even though Butterick, McCall's and Vogue are offered at Fabricland stores, they do not carry Kwik Sew which is also under the MBV umbrella. Time will tell.  

Personally, this news is greeted with the memories of what happened to the NY Collection when McCall's was picked up by CSS Industries. The short lived NY Collection designs changed once they were under the Vogue label and then they disappeared. I remember the sizing changed as it was a time when I was able to get smaller sizes than was available under Vogue. I like the fit of Simplicity patterns, I just hope they don't mess with the fit.     

Fear has also been expressed on McCall's Facebook page that this will mean less competition and higher prices. Followed by comments on how expensive not only patterns are but also that the price of notions and fabric have sky-rocketed recently. I have to agree, I've also noticed an insane increase in prices. Certain brands of zippers for example that more than doubled in price. So, I can also appreciate the fear expressed by others.  

I guess time will tell what this will mean. Until then I'll be hoping for the best.  

Happy Sewing!  


Sunday, 5 November 2017

In Sewing News Today...

The sewing machines have been humming this weekend. I've been busy sewing for the upcoming holiday season and stocking up the Etsy shop with more microwave cozies.  


There are more to come. The Campbell's soup print has been the most popular but I'm running low and sadly the store is out of stock. So, I'm branching out into some sports themed prints. It's fun mix and matching with some new prints.  

In other sewing news, I finally used up four metres of cotton velveteen from my stash. I know, after those little girl dresses that I made in velveteen I claimed that I would never sew with this fabric.  


But I still had this floral print velveteen in my stash. Never say never. I picked it up many moons ago when Fanny Fabrics closed down. I actually thought about using it for a coat but memories of sewing velvet and velveteen turned that idea into a dream. Since I have recently discarded several pieces of my bedding in a little experiment I found myself chilled to the bone last night. At least I woke up not feeling stuffed up. But I digress... I folded this piece of fabric in half stitched the selvages together and serged the un-finished ends and there I have a make-shift blanket made out of cotton velveteen.  

Well, that is all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  



Thursday, 2 November 2017

Knit Sweater: Simplicity 8529

Simplicity 8529 is the cat's meow. I'm so thrilled with how this turned out and that I have a wool sweater to wear.  


Seriously, I'm going to get good use out of this one. And the best part is that I was able to make this out of a beautiful 100% wool knit that I had in my stash. I was just waiting for the perfect pattern to come along and this is the one.  


Sorry, black doesn't photograph well. I really like the funnel neck line (view A) and the side slits. The back is a little longer than the front and it actually did surprise me that I like how it looks. Maybe because of the loose fit? Some how it just works.  


Last night I worked on the toile for this pattern (the red version). I copied a size medium and cut it out just as it came in the pattern. I shortened the hem an inch and finished it up and when it came to cutting out the black wool version, I also shortened the length on the sleeves.  


Super easy make and super comfortable to wear. So the fabrics... 

The black wool fabric was a find at Northwest Fabric a couple of years ago when they received fabrics from an out-of-business upscale dress shop. All of the fabrics were marked down to $3.99 / metre and if you bought the rest of the bolt, it would only cost 99¢ / metre. So I bought the rest of the bolt which only worked out to 1.7 metres and it had some damage at the end.  


I took my time inspecting and marking all the holes in the fabric and thankfully I was able to cut out all of the pieces that I needed. Can I just say that this wool knit feels luxurious compared to the polyester knit that I used for the toile. The toile fabric was another bargain find when Fanny Fabrics closed down many years ago. It feels great to finally put good use to these knits. The sweaters were sewn with the knit (lightning bolt) stitch and the edges were finished on the serger.  


The Stats:  

Fabrics:  2.8 metres

Pattern:  Simplicity 8529

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Burda tracing paper, highlighter, pins, scissors, thread clippers, measuring tape, measuring gauge, sewing machine, walking foot, serger, tweezers, iron and ironing board, and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  


Wednesday, 1 November 2017

Could Some of My Fabric Choices be Making Me Sick?

Okay before you start to assume I'm an over-sensitive eco-lunatic about natural vs. man-made fibres bear with me for a bit. I actually started on the natural fibre journey because I was noticing that natural fibres held up better than the man-made fabrics that I was sewing with and it started my inner calculator to conclude that I really was better spending a little more at the cash register for the natural fibre fabrics. 

CC-licensed image by Flickr user:  Jo Jakeman {Source}
I found this to be the case because they last longer and in the long run, man-made fibre garments actually cost more because they had to be replaced more often. This sewing thing has been a long journey full of little observations along the way.

But then another observation that doesn't have to do with how quickly and badly a fabric is prone to pilling made me start thinking about other natural vs. man-made fibres qualities from another angle. It had to do with my allergies. This past summer I had a part-time job at the local fabric/quilting/home decor/knick-knack store. Yes, my happy place. While at work I spent over seven hours a day handling fabrics in a very dusty environment (and think of all that lint!). One thing that I quickly noticed was that it was not the greatest environment for my allergies and sinus issues. I found that the days I cut large quantities of fleece / home decor fabrics and put them back on the shelves these were the days that I had the most negative and painful issues with my sinuses. I felt like I was sick all the time with flu like symptoms and the tissues were becoming stained red when I blew my nose. I have since left the position and miraculously my sinus issues improved. For the most part...

The observation that the days I worked more closely with fleece and home decor fabric were the worst lead me to wonder if the blanket on my bed could also be contributing to feeling stuffed up when I woke up in the morning.


I made this blanket back and 2011 and it has been part of my bedding ever since even in the summer months. But one day while changing my bedding I started to consider that this simple item that laid on top of my sheets may also be a culprit. I often woke up in the middle of the night unable to breathe and I always woke up feeling stuffed up. Could this blanket made of similar fabric in the fleece / home decor department be playing havoc with my sinuses and breathing?

I decided to do an experiment and remove the blanket from my bedding. I made my bed up with just flannel sheets and a down comforter. Would this make any improvement? Much to my surprise (it really shouldn't have surprised me but it did) I experienced a much better sleep (I've actually been sleeping through the night) and I didn't wake up stuffed up. I should add that recently I've been starting incorporating Rhonda's essential oil routine.  But I digress...

All of that was until I made this project.  Another man-made, faux fabric and after handling the fabric for about eight or so hours while I cut, chalk marked seam allowances and sewed, I found myself waking up the next morning all stuffed up. Could my man-made fabric choices of the past be what has been making me sick? Some people are allergic to wool, so can an allergy to the chemicals, finishes and products used in making man-made fibres be such a far stretch?

I don't think that these pieces put together amount to a coincidence. They actually might be worth more investigation. Or at least a little experiment.

I've cleaned out my closet of all the clothes made with man-made fibres and for the next three months I'm going to strive to wear a natural fibre wardrobe. I have another appointment with an ENT specialist next year. So, it will be interesting to see if there is any noticeable change after being more mindful of what I wear and perhaps see if this sinus situation improves with this wardrobe change.

Happy sewing!


Tuesday, 31 October 2017

October in Review

Sewing:

Clockwise Top L to R:  wool top, Vogue 1503; wool jacket, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8916; satin back crepe dress, Simplicity 2372; faux shearling jacket, Kwik Sew 4197; satin back crepe jacket, OOP Vogue 8916; silk dress, Eva dress by Tessuti patterns; waffle weave cotton kitchen towel (one not shown), no pattern used; waffle weave cotton night gown, Butterick 5567. 

I made some plans last month. How many did I cross off the list.
  1. Sew that cardigan style jacket for Mom.  This one is a priority.  
  2. I need a fancy dress for an upcoming event in two weeks.  I was thinking about another Eva dress in a grey silk fabric but I'm not all that excited about sewing another version of the dress. I might have over-dosed on the pattern. But if I don't sew it, I have no idea what will replace it.    
  3. A jacket to go with said fancy dress. 
  4. I still want to sew some sleepwear.  
  5. And could you believe that I entered the coat contest over at Pattern Review. I have OOP Vogue 1213 that looks like a fun pattern to try. We'll see if there is time. 
I'm quite pleased with my progress this month although I was feeling a little wiped out by mid-month.  Plan #3 I abandoned when I discovered that my burgundy coat worked with my dress. I just removed the decorative closure and it was perfect. No need for a new jacket. I didn't get around to Plan #5, sewing Vogue 1213 for the coat contest. Part not enough time and part thinking that I could use a car coat instead or another full length wool coat. One day I'll find an excuse to make Vogue 1213. It looks like a fun project.   

RTW & Fabric Fasts:

I finally did it! It took ten months but this is the first month that I was successful at the fabric fast. Woohoo! Mind you the stores are open until six. Just kidding. The binders helped with this fast, not only with finding where a piece of fabric is stored, it also reminds me of what I have in the fabric stash. The binders are a game changer.

I did purchase and return a sweater this month. I wanted to take it home for some photos and then return it. The plan is to maybe recreate a version in a better quality knit (this one is acrylic).


The sides of this sweater has side slits (both sides) all the way up to the armhole with ties. The fit was great and it had a turtleneck. It's so my kind of sweater and I really wanted to take notes on this one.  This was all before I got my hands on Simplicity 8529, so plans have changed.     

The Stats:


Supplies
Quantity Used from the stash this Month 
Quantity Used this Year
Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape
 1.1 metre
5.93 metres
0
Bias Tape
 4.6 metres
28.8 metres
10 metres
Buttons
12
57
50
Chain

0
0
Cord Stopper

0
0
Elastic

32.3 metres
38 metres
Fabric
 17.7  metres
121.6 metres
76
metres
Fusible Tape
 1 metre
44.26 metres
6 rolls
Hand needles

2
0
Hook and Eyes

0
0
Interfacing
 2.6 metres
9.8 metres
6 metres
Lace trim
2.6 metres
0
Pattern (new)
2
17
18
Pattern (previously used--TNT)
4
30
0
Ribbon

1.1 metres
5.3 metres
Serger needles

0
0
Serger thread

4
12
Sewing machine needles
5
10
9
Snaps

5
0
Thread
7
17
18
Trim
2.1 metres
4.1 metres
7 metres
Velcro

0
0
Zipper
1
9
10

November Plans:  

  1. A sweater or two made with Simplicity 8529.  I have some beautiful wool knit fabric that I've been too afraid to cut into so there will surely be a toile made before hand.   
  2. That beautiful Paco Peralta skirt, Vogue 1567, in a red plaid silk perhaps?  
  3. And I would like to finally make the good version of Vogue 9268 in a cotton knit fabric.  
Happy Sewing!  

Sunday, 29 October 2017

Kwik Sew 4197: Jacket

My weekend sewing plans changed while out at the farmer's market on Saturday and quickly noticing that I didn't dress nearly warm enough while out in the open space. It was cold. Could see your breath cold. It was the nudge that I needed to get to work on this project.  


This jacket is made with Kwik Sew 4197, a 2016 release. The pattern is well-drafted and it was an easy sew. Easy but messy. But that is another paragraph.

It has been awhile since I've sewn with a Kwik Sew pattern and the first thing I noticed is that they have move from the hard stock paper to tissue pattern printed patterns. I felt nostalgically sad when I opened the pattern and discovered this but I guess the hint of it should have been the different envelope and lighter weight. I got over it quickly when the initial sadness turned to appreciation during the cutting process.


Tissue paper was just fine when it came to cutting out this fabric and it's pile. The pattern instructions for the most part are excellent. I did get over the disappointment that there were no finished garment measurements anywhere to be found despite finding this on the instructions sheet, "[c]ompare the measurement of the finished garment, printed on the pattern piece to your body measurements." I'm just complaining over nothing, it was easy to measure the pattern pieces and do some simple math. I guess I just wanted to hurry and get this project done.


There was time spent marking the seam allowance in order to overlap the pattern pieces and topstitch.


The excess on the underside had to be trimmed.


Folding the excess over, it was clipped close to the edge.  


My favourite feature of this jacket are the overlapped and top-stitched seams.  


I stumbled across this fabric over the summer and couldn't resist the 70% off sticker. It's not a natural fabric that I'm trying to sew more of, but it appears to be a fabric that I'm hoping will keep me warm on these cold autumns days. I was a little worried about how to sew it. I read recommendations to use a teflon foot, instead I used the roller foot that I had on hand. It worked out great. I used a denim needle as suggested and a heavier weight thread. I chose a longer stitch length and pinned the pieces with silk pins that did not leave any marks.    


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres faux shearling 

Needle:  1 - Jeans 100/16

Pattern:  Kwik Sew 4197

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, thread clippers, scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, silk pins, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, roller foot, walking foot, serger, threads, vacuum, mini sewing machine vacuum, lint brushes, and lint roller.   

Happy Sewing!  

Thursday, 26 October 2017

Making Something With the Scraps

There was just under half a metre of that lovely waffle weave cotton fabric and well, I decided to make something with some left-over pieces. 


There was enough to squeak out two kitchen towels. 


The trim has been in my notion stash for a long time. It's the same trim used on this robe. One of the towels has two rows of ribbon just so I could use up the rest of it. Feels good to finally stash bust this trim. And it feels good to make something useful with the fabric scraps.     


The Stats:

Fabric:  0.4 metres 

Trim:  2.1 metres 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, sewing machine, thread clippers, jean-a-ma-jig, serger, tweezers, threads, iron, ironing board, and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  


Wednesday, 25 October 2017

Sleepwear: Butterick 5667

Sleepwear has been on my want-to-sew list for quite some time and tonight I finally got around to trying out one of sleepwear patterns in my stash.  


Butterick 5667 is a super easy pattern pattern for a top, gown and elastic waist pants. It's a perfect pattern for a beginner and quite affordable. I was able to press my fabric, cut it out and sew this project this evening. I glance over the pattern instruction sheet and noticed that it calls for set in sleeves and then decided to do my own thing. They're just suggestions right? 

Instead of setting in the sleeve, I flat pinned and sewed the armhole before finishing the side seams.  I didn't use the self-neck binding method from the pattern since I had some blue seam binding left over from this project and just used up the last of the seam binding instead. I was worried that it would be a bit snug around the hip area so I sewed the side seams with a 3/8" allowance. Maybe I should have made a large instead of a medium? Something to keep in mind if I make another one. That and maybe narrow that neckline. Although, I'm not convinced that I want to make another one.    


It's nothing fancy but I'm hoping that it will be cozy. The fabric is the last of the waffle weave cotton that I used to make Mama R's robe. I'm surprised that I was able to squeak out the gown since I was a bit short on the recommended yardage. Maybe it was because I didn't cut out the neck binding? The fabric made it's way into my stash after I found it in the bargain centre. It has a fading line down the centre of it's length where it was folded on the bolt. I was able to avoid the evidence of fading at the centre front and back by creating a new fold. On the back there is evidence of the line of fading on the lower right side. No big deal since it's just to sleep in. The fabric was previously pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer. 


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.4 metres waffle weave cotton

Seam binding:  1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 5667

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, scissors, sewing machine, serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, and chocolates.  

Happy Sewing!  


Tuesday, 24 October 2017

Rachel Comey Top: Vogue 1503

Vogue 1503 has been in my pattern stash ever since it was released last year. I've been meaning to make it right away but then I waited until April to cut it out.
I hand stitched the non-fusible interfacing on the pattern pieces that call for interfacing but then it became an UFO for six months while my sewing mojo just couldn't get into it. I couldn't at the time handle sitting and sitting through the french seams turned me off of this project for some time. And then other projects pushed their way ahead of this one. Add to that my sewing mojo took a hit.

After the recent flurry of sewing projects, I was ready to tackle this project at a much appreciated slow pace. I enjoyed the process, the clean finish of those french seams, and those pockets are delightful. So, finally after six months and eleven days of sewing, it's done!


This pattern, Vogue 1503, is absolutely beautiful. Rachel Comey designs some of the best patterns that incorporates functionable and stylish pockets. I'm thinking back to that much-loved skirt pattern with pockets, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1247. This one is another. There are three bodice front pockets. Love it! These are not dainty pockets that are pretty to look at and that's it, they're pretty and functionable pockets.


I found this lightweight cream coloured 100% wool at the clearance section at Fabricland that I thought would be a perfect fit with this pattern. I'm on a natural fibre kick lately so this works well with that focus. The non-fusible interfacing is also a natural fibre. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer followed by a pressing prior to cutting. The fabric handled all of these pre-treatment processes without any issues.  


The button front top pattern is perfect. Okay, almost perfect for my petite frame. I did have to shorten the sleeve and hem length along with straightening the hemline. The only other change that I made was to the button placement on the front band. But in my eyes it's perfect.


The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres 100% lightweight wool

Interfacing:  1.3 metres non-fusible interfacing

Buttons:  Twelve - 1/2" buttons (I put an extra one in the front)

Pattern:  Vogue 1503

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, rulers, measuring tape, sewing machine, serger, buttonhole foot, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, iron, ironing board, thread, hand needle, tailor's wax, tailor's chalk, tailor's mitt, good tunes, lots of breaks for stretching and doing physio exercises.

Happy Sewing!


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